Thanks for the answers, Kevin. I have more questions, but I&#;m going
to wait until I look further into 2,500 psi systems. I&#;m leery of 10
or 20 hp motors for pumps, but a lot of that is surely because I&#;m
only using 1, 1/2, and (formerly) 1.5 hp pumps now for my 10K psi
presses. I&#;m thinking &#;doesn&#;t a 10 hp motor just gobble up
electricity?&#;.

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Anyway, I&#;ll get more serious about &#;low&#; pressure when it comes time
to repair another expensive high pressure pump. I am going to
disagree (more like elaborate) on some of your numbers about pressing
things. You say it takes 6-7 tons for (most) pancake dies, but I know
that that figure is derived from the fact that your dies are meant
more for thicker metals. Since the ones I make also cut as thin as
people need to go, a lot of them cut their parts with much less than
6-7 tons. I usedto use a 3-ton arbor press for small blanking jobs,
say , pieces 2" in diameter or less, in 22 ga or thinner metal. I
could get a little bigger or thicker with a cheater bar on the arbor
handle, but 3 tons really isn&#;t much good for anything but the
lightest-duty blanking. I have a 1-ton arbor press on my
die-breaking-in table , and a lot of times, part of breaking in
entails blanking out a few parts in thin metal, to help loosen up
brand new dies, so that they are operable.This (obviously) means that
many small parts can be blanked out with only a ton or two. IIRC, the
original RT screw press only delivered 3-5 tons (what someone from
Rio told me eons ago), and the larger one (both unfortunately
discontinued) about 5-7 tons. Of course, back when that equipment was
new, nobody (almost nobody) was making RT dies to cut bracelets or
buckles.

(Shameless self-promotion alert!) Why the original RT saw couldn&#;t
even handle a piece of steel big enough for a buckle, much less a
bracelet, so it was off to the invention/reconstruction ward for me,
around , to build a saw that I could cut big dies on, and a few
short years later, I got that fateful call from Lee Marshall, with
that spiffy new (now old and unavailable) sawguide. At the other end
of the (jewelry-sized) blanking spectrum, it&#;s been rare that I make
a die that takes more than about 15 tons to blank. I don&#;t recall
ever having one that wouldn&#;t work on my 25 ton press, and that
includes a fork in 14 ga silver, a comb with about 30" of sawing in
16 ga ss, and some big animals about 6" by 4" in 18 gacopper. I think
I did a 3" circle in 1/8" steel that took about 20 tons. As far as
embossing, I&#;ve come across a lot of jobs where 20 tons isn&#;t even
close to enough. The kind of press forming I&#;ve done gazillions of
parts of is about the simplest kind of embossing, the kind that I
first started doing by soldering wire designs onto pancake dies, to
make one step cut/emboss dies. The first big job like that was a
butterfly about 5" by 4" with complex, fancy line designs embossed
into the wings, pressing into a 1/4" 90a urethane pad. I was using a
20 ton jack in a BD press and taking it up to almost 20 tons,
thousands of times in a few weeks.= That jack gave out after a
month, and I switched to industrial hydraulic cylinders at that
point. The main job I have now for my 50 ton press is for a person
who makes rusted steel, Spanish-tin-work style, religious and
decorative items, averaging about 2" by 5", with many over 6" and one
giant cross that&#;s 9" by 5". These have lots of deep lines embossed
into them and most take 30 - 50 tons, so I am taking the press up all
the way for hundreds of cycles at a sitting, and when things are
cranking, a couple hundred an hour. They all work fairly well at 50
tons or less, except the giant cross, which barely forms to an
acceptable degree, and would love another 25 -50 tons. But even small
items can take more than 20 tons. I used to doa lot of parts for
someone who made little animal faces and other decorated embossed
designs, and those had lots of little detail made form shots and
wires. What took the most pressure was pressing them into
polycarbonate plastic, to get the crispest detail, as opposed to
urethane, which left a less sharply defined impression. So sometimes
even small items in thin metal want more than 20 tons. One of the
many reasons I tell people with the intention of forming metal in a
press , that it&#;s better to start out getting more press than you
think you&#;ll need, and 20 tons, instead of 12, is worth it and
they&#;ll be glad they have it, and if they want to blah blah blah,
then think about getting 50. One more thing, in answer to a question
posed about air/oil hydraulic presses. I did use this kind of pump
-and it is a pump, one that uses compressed ari to pump oil to a
hydraulic cylinder or jack- very early on, before I went to straight
electric hydraulic pumps. You can use either kind of pump to run a
cylinder, the advantage of an air/oil setup is that it&#;s simple
comapred to an electric pump, and all the work is done by the
compressor. Many people have air compressors, but not many have
electric hydraulic pumps, so it can be a lot less expensive to set
up. Compressors and these air/oil units are much less costly than
electric hydraulic pumps. I wouldn&#;t call them high capacity, at
least not the smaller opnes I used, or ones that are inexpensive and
use moderate amounts of air. I remember Northern Tool used to sell a
20 ton air/oil press, everything but the compressor, for around
$1,000, and I got some specs regarding it&#;s speed, and they were
favorable. That company doesn&#;t carry that press anymore (not last I
checked), but the air/oil units themselves are not uncommon. Like
with any system, electric or air, it&#;s wise to learn a bit about flow
rates and pressure and such, to make the right choice for one&#;s needs
and one&#;s budget. We had a funky setup with two air/oil units rigged
in tandem to one press, to gain speed, but it was&#;funky, and leaked
a lot, so i&#;d suggest looking for a bigger single unit if speed is an
issue. I&#;ve known a fair number of people over the years who have
gone this route, and as the first step up from manually operated (
hand cranked jacks or pumps) it&#;s a pretty good option, for a modest
gain in speed at a modest cost.

DS

Sheltech

affordable custom dies for cutting out parts that you design

Thank you for reading our article and we hope it can help you better understand the causes of valve sealing failure and leakage. If you want to learn more about sanitary valves, we would like to advise you to visit Adamant Valve homepage for more information.

The valve&#;s construction materials are not suited to withstand the corrosion of the medium and mechanical abrasion.

The closing piece is not firmly connected and becomes loose or even falls off.

Closing mechanisms can become stuck in place or exceed the top dead center, leading to a damaged or broken connection and ultimately, valve failure.

The sealing surface material or overall valve type may not be suited to its current applications.

The top center of the connection between the valve stem and the closing part is suspended, incorrect, or worn.

The gland is skewed, and the gap between the gland and the valve stem is too small or too large, resulting in wear of the valve stem and damage to the packing.

The gland, bolts, and other parts are damaged, making it impossible to compress the gland.

The number of packing circles is insufficient, and the gland is not pressed tightly.

The packing is not installed properly, there are defects in the screw-wound joint, or tightening and loosening are present.

Wrong selection of packing, not resistant to medium corrosion, not resistant to valve high pressure or vacuum, high temperature or low temperature use.

Iron castings are not always built with the highest quality. Sometimes there are defects that can lead to valve failure, such as blisters, loose tissues, or slag inclusions on the valve body and bonnet body.

A damaged bearing can cause the rolling body to change position which increases the effects of pump vibrations. Over time, these powerful vibrations can wear down and degrade seals, eventually leading to valve sealing failure.

Sealing is achieved mainly by blocking the medium in the pump cavity with the liquid film formed on the sealing surface. The role of the flushing liquid is to mitigate heat on the sealing surface. Burnout of the sealing surface and seal failure can occur when the flushing fluid is insufficient or there is excessive heat inside the sealing cavity. A few root causes of inadequate sealing flushing are cut-off of the medium in the pump cavity, sudden pressure drop in the sealing chamber, and damage to the sealing ring.

When the pressure at the pump inlet is too low, the pressure in the pump cavity suddenly drops and the liquid in the sealed chamber flows back to the pump cavity, resulting in dry friction on the sealing surface. This can produce a huge amount of heat in a short period of time. The sealing surface can&#;t be removed, so it can burn out and lead to sealing failure. Once the pressure at the pump inlet becomes too high, the pressure in the pump cavity increases past the sealing&#;s limit, and the valve sealing fails.

Valve seals directly contact the fluid or gas medium in the pipeline, and are vulnerable to any corrosive elements the medium may contain. You should expect the valve sealing to fail after the sealing element reaches its service life threshold.

There are many reasons why sanitary valves can experience sealing failure. Check the list below to learn how to diagnose your leaky valve and how to prevent a valve leak.

Sanitary valves are control components that provide diversion, cut-off, throttling, check, diversion or overflow, and pressure relief in pipeline fluid conveyance systems. Valve sealing is a critical factor when safely processing and transporting fluids and gases. Even a small valve seal failure or a slowly dripping valve leak can quickly lead to a catastrophic flood, loss of product, or other emergency. There are many potential causes of valve sealing failure and leakage, and you should take proactive steps to mitigate them as part of your valve maintenance routine.

How to Check Valve Stem Seals

Valve seals precisely control the amount of oil entering the valve stem system, making them critical components in maintaining your engine&#;s compression levels. Having a valve stem seal that works correctly within any of your applications can save you time and money by eliminating the need for lengthy engine repairs and replacements. But how do you check for bad valve seals, and what signs should you be aware of?

No one wants to face valve issues because they indicate a severe problem within your machine&#;s engine. Here is where Global Elastomeric Products comes into play. Learn how to find faulty seals and what you can do to avoid these issues.

Table of Contents

6 Signs Your Valve Stem Seal Is Leaking

Valve stem seals control oil consumption and lubricant in an engine by allowing a specific amount of oil inside the valve stem as it moves. A controlled amount of oil is crucial in maintaining adequate lubrication. Otherwise, too little oil can cause various components to wear as parts rub together. However, excess oil can result in carbon buildup, which can lead to many issues, such as:

• Damaged valve seats
• Degraded catalytic converters
• Increased emissions
• Less efficiency
• More oil consumption

Essentially, valve stem seals prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber from the cylinder head. A damaged seal can cause engine oil flooding that will lead to engine failure.

Six ways to assess whether you have a faulty seal on your hands include:

1. 1. Cold engine test
2. 2. High levels of smoke
3. 3. High oil consumption
4. 4. Idling
5. 5. Less acceleration power
6. 6. Misfiring

1. Conducting a Cold Engine Test

One of the best ways to tell if you have a faulty valve seal is to conduct a cold engine test. After your machine hasn&#;t run for a while &#; even overnight &#; the seal is now cool. Once you start the engine, the seal will contract. Damaged seals will leave a small gap. Leftover oil will then settle at the top of the valve cover head.

When you start the engine, you may also see blue-tinted smoke appear from the exhaust. If this happens, it means the residual oil is passing down through the damaged seal and into the combustion chamber. The bluish smoke, which is burned oil, signifies that the engine needs a new seal, even if it clears after several minutes of running the engine.

2. Increased Smoke Levels

Depending on the machines and equipment you use, smoke is often a common form of exhaust. However, when you start seeing it last longer than usual or appear a different color, you know a faulty seal may be the cause. The excessive smoke may also come in more consistent waves as the engine runs for long periods. Be aware of specific machine movements that cause more smoke than usual.

3. More Oil Consumption

If you notice you&#;re going through more oil than usual, it can be another indication of a bad seal. When oil leaks or burns at higher rates, the seal no longer controls the oil flow. Burning oil increases emissions and can contaminate the catalyst. Unburned fuel in the exhaust skyrockets the converter&#;s operating temperatures, which can cause the converter to overheat and create a blocked exhaust.

Make sure to check the engine&#;s oil level with a dipstick, and refer to your oil log to see if the fluid levels differ. You can make this part of your regular maintenance schedule. While oil leaks are often a clear warning of faulty valve seals, they may not always be visible, so don&#;t rely on this as a guaranteed warning because the oil could be burning off.

4. Engine Idling

Pay attention to your machines if they ever idle. When the engine is at rest, high vacuum levels can cause the oil to build around the heads of the valve system while the valve is closed. If the seal is faulty, you may once again see blue-tinted smoke when the engine begins to run. That means the oil is getting pulled past the seal and into the valve guide. Make sure to shut the engine down and remove it from operation until you can get it repaired.

5. Compromised Acceleration Power

Depending on the engines you use in the oilfield and agricultural industries, testing the engine&#;s compression can also help determine if your valve stem seals are deteriorating. If the machine has a higher compression level, you have a valve seal issue and you'll need replacements. On the other hand, a lower level may designate a piston ring malfunction.

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6. Engine Misfiring

An engine with broken seals can cause oil to build on the electrodes of the engine&#;s spark plugs. As a result, plug fouling can occur, which is an accumulation of carbon deposits that can cause engine misfires. As carbon buildup increases, so does compression, leading to engine damage from faulty detonation or even issues with pre-ignition.

Knowing these six signs of valve stem seal failure can help you mitigate the issue before problems like oil leaks and high compression levels begin. The sooner you notice different-colored smoke, an increase in oil usage, misfiring engine startups and idle noises, the faster you can make the necessary seal repairs. In return, your operations will remain efficient, productive and safe.

Causes of Bad Valve Stem Seals

The main causes of a deteriorated seal come from faults within the seal itself and improper installation. Even though valves consist of high-strength rubber, they can break, crack or wear down. Seals could even be missing from a botched installation. Any of these faults in the seal will cause oil to reach the engine&#;s cylinders.

As valve stem seals begin to fail, carbon buildup forms, which also affects other engine components like the valve seat and guide &#; which is why quick repairs are critical.

In some cases, there still may be excellent compression. However, if high oil consumption is present, it will then cause higher operating temperatures that can lead to broken or cracked seals. Seal problems can also form from an improper clearance between the valve and valve guide. When it&#;s loose within the cylinder head, it can move laterally, wearing out the valve.

The best thing you and your crew can do is refer to your preventive maintenance schedule for each piece of equipment in your fleet and complete regular safety checks. 

Daily or weekly inspections will help you find leaks and problems before they become more severe.

It&#;s also essential to invest in top-quality valve seal solutions that are free of defaults. Partnering with a company that guarantees seal products with no defaults places you ahead of the competition, giving you a competitive advantage.

How to Check If Your Valve Stem Seal Is Faulty

Because many factors can indicate a bad valve stem seal, you&#;ll have to investigate and not always rely on the various signs. If you have the appropriate training and qualifications, go ahead and start your inspection. Otherwise, rely on the experts for guidance.

Step 1

Open the hood to the engine and check the oil level of your machine using a dipstick. Is it significantly lower compared to other times after a similar amount of usage? You can also check to see if there is any excess clearance between the valve stem and guide. Leaks are an obvious sign the valve stem seal has issues &#; but these aren't always present, even when the seal is failing.

Step 2

Start the engine and observe the exhaust. Is there a lot of smoke coming out of the pipe, and does it have a blue-gray tint? If so, the engine is burning leaked oil &#; which is why you may not see any leaks under the hood.

Step 3

Listen for odd noises like rattling or tapping as the engine idles. Any unusual sounds can indicate problematic valves.

Step 4

Check for engine and error lights that can indicate a problem. You can hook the machine up to a diagnostic reader to scan for different error codes. For example, valve seal and valve guide issues will read as specific codes, so reference the owner&#;s manual for assistance.

Step 5

If worse comes to worst, you will need to disassemble the engine and inspect the valve stem seals and other components. Relying on the professionals for this step may be best to ensure more parts do not get damaged throughout the process. You or the expert should look for dented, cracked, broken or deteriorated valve seals.

Valve stem seals' replacement costs are affordable in the long run because new seals prevent more catastrophic engine damage.

How to Prevent Valve Stem Seal Leaks

If oil is leaking from your engine, you&#;ll want to find a temporary, stopgap solution until you identify the issue and make repairs. For example, you can use an oil stop-leak additive in the oil filler, just like you would with regular engine oil. The additive will give the valve seals a quick fix by causing them to expand, creating a rapid extension of life.

You can also add high-mileage oil with seal conditioners that can slow or stop oil leaks. This type of oil keeps the seals pliable to help prevent corrosion.

Once you make a short-term fix, it&#;s crucial to start on repairs or replacements right away. Prolonged valve failure can affect the entire engine and hydraulics system, costing you expensive repairs or replacements in the future. 

Failed parts can also affect your workers' safety and well-being. Your machine may begin to operate hazardously with a jolt of power or faster/slower movements than usual.

Once you&#;ve taken the correct preventive measures, replace the leaking seals using the following steps:

1. 1. Remove the seal cover.
2. 2. Get rid of any buildup.
3. 3. Place sealer on both sides, unless it&#;s rubber.
4. 4. Position the new seals.
5. 5. Place the cover back on.
6. 6. Tighten bolts.

Fast valve stem seal replacements are just as essential as choosing a manufacturer that knows the vitality of a well-designed valve stem seal. Look for custom solutions that can fit your specific requirements if your machines are unique to your industry or operations.

You will want to invest in top-tier solutions that are free of defaults. For example, Global Elastomeric Products has an inventory of rubber seals that provide an elastomeric seal for your engines. We focus our valve seal portfolio on durable, temperature- and chemical-resistant solutions. We can also manufacture any customized rubber compound to fit your unique needs.

Our packer elements and valve seals include:

• Arrow
• Baker
• Baker/Brown
• Guiberson

Quality means everything when you&#;re trying to meet your oil or agricultural industry quotas, including valve seals. Your business needs to rely on elastomeric products that produce defect-free replacement parts just as much as you count on efficient employees on your rig. If you neglect quality, you can put your operations and workers at risk of breakdowns and injuries.

Customized Valve Stem Seals

Functional valve stem seals are crucial in keeping your operations efficient. Whether you work in the agricultural, oil or another industry, your machines drive daily operations. If you&#;re experiencing seal leaks, deterioration or damage, Global Elastomeric Products has what you need.

We guarantee our standard and custom in-house seal designs will be free of defects. Our experts design, manufacture and distribute our valve seal product lines while keeping your specifications at the forefront of each customization. We can generate product designs and engineer seals for any oil field or agricultural application. Global Elastomeric Products is the solution to your leaking and damaged seals.

Reach out to us online with questions or for more information about our solutions. You can also request a free quote by calling us at 661-831- to help you better understand our valve stem seal products.

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