Brake pads/rotors: will shop install my parts?

Post by tibbitts » Sun Jan 24, 5:47 pm

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit brake pad supplier.

Shallowpockets wrote:It is fairly easy to replace disc brakes pads. If you have mechanic ability of any kind you can do it. Just do the front ones first since they are probably the most worn. Then you can see how they go.
There is a difference of opinion on whether or not rotors need resurfacing at all. Usually resurfacing is in regards to glazing of the rotors. Even if you have worn pads enough to have scored the rotors the new pads will mold to that in time.
A jack, some basic wrenches and watch a few YouTube videos and you can change the pads, and even the rotors.
I would suggest you buy a brake pad spreader tool to make things easier. Google that. You can one for less than $10.
Also no need to upscale your brake pads. Use anything that is OEM equivalent.

Although it's usually one of the easier jobs, you're far, far underestimating the mechanical skill that may be required under some circumstances. It's a problem with this forum in general: there's a success bias, in that there just don't seem to be enough people around here who've tried and failed. Or maybe just not enough who can remember doing that. Just assembling all the tools to attack the caliper bolts and caliper mounting bolts, which may be corroded and not have direct attack angles for ordinary tools, is one issue. Over time you develop techniques for dealing with reluctant fasteners that somebody without that experience isn't going to have. Then on RWD you may have the front wheel bearings to deal with, and on a rear end with discs, you have to set the parking brake shoes so they engage the inside of the drum correctly, meaning you need another tool to measure that, since there's usually no externally-accessible star adjuster as with rear drums. We have replies saying to measure disc thickness with a caliper, that don't seem to recognize that the typical household doesn't own a caliper. And a lot of us live where we'd have to rent a facility to do the work, since may residences prohibit mechanical work (and yes, I've changed pads in a walmart parking lot, but.. really?) We have to recognize that it's definitely possible to get something taken apart that you can't get back together yourself, or get part way done and break a part that you weren't planning to replace, and then what? Not everybody has another car to run around chasing parts.

Youtube has made mechanical work much more accessible, but you can't get "feel" from a youtube video, and a lot of the videos gloss over potential problems.

If some people want to make working on their car a hobby and buy out a snap-on truck to equip their garage, that's fine, but it's very misleading to minimize the skill and experience that is sometimes (though not always) required.

Although it's usually one of the easier jobs, you're far, far underestimating the mechanical skill that may be required under some circumstances. It's a problem with this forum in general: there's a success bias, in that there just don't seem to be enough people around here who've tried and failed. Or maybe just not enough who can remember doing that. Just assembling all the tools to attack the caliper bolts and caliper mounting bolts, which may be corroded and not have direct attack angles for ordinary tools, is one issue. Over time you develop techniques for dealing with reluctant fasteners that somebody without that experience isn't going to have. Then on RWD you may have the front wheel bearings to deal with, and on a rear end with discs, you have to set the parking brake shoes so they engage the inside of the drum correctly, meaning you need another tool to measure that, since there's usually no externally-accessible star adjuster as with rear drums. We have replies saying to measure disc thickness with a caliper, that don't seem to recognize that the typical household doesn't own a caliper. And a lot of us live where we'd have to rent a facility to do the work, since may residences prohibit mechanical work (and yes, I've changed pads in a walmart parking lot, but.. really?) We have to recognize that it's definitely possible to get something taken apart that you can't get back together yourself, or get part way done and break a part that you weren't planning to replace, and then what? Not everybody has another car to run around chasing parts.Youtube has made mechanical work much more accessible, but you can't get "feel" from a youtube video, and a lot of the videos gloss over potential problems.If some people want to make working on their car a hobby and buy out a snap-on truck to equip their garage, that's fine, but it's very misleading to minimize the skill and experience that is sometimes (though not always) required.

However, you don&#;t always need to replace the brake rotors at the same time as the pads. If you only replace the pads, you may spend $150 to $300 per axle. If you prefer to do it yourself, the cost goes down even more, averaging $35 to $175 per axle.

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Cost Factors for Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

It&#;s difficult to determine the cost of brake pad and rotor replacement without considering a few factors. These aspects change the cost.

• Make/model: The type of vehicle you drive changes the price. Larger trucks tend to cost more than compact cars. Additionally, a luxury or European model can cost more because of the expense of the parts.
• Material: Brakes are available in various types, such as organic, semi-metallic, and ceramic. Typically, ceramic is the most expensive of the three.
• Aftermarket vs. OEM: If you visit a dealership for brake pad replacement, you will pay more for OEM parts. Aftermarket parts can be much cheaper but can also end up costing more if you choose performance brakes.
• Front/rear: You don&#;t always have to replace all four brakes at once. You may be able to get just the front or rear brakes changed. This way, you spread out the cost over time.
• DIY vs. professional: If you change the brakes on your own, you can save money on labor. The price is variable even if you choose to visit a repair shop. On average, dealerships tend to charge the highest labor rates, but you may also pay a premium if you visit a specialized mechanic, such as one that works only on BMWs.

Let&#;s look at a few estimates by vehicle model based on multiple web sources.

Do Brake Pads and Rotors Have to Be Replaced at the Same Time?

It&#;s not always necessary to replace the rotors when you change the pads. Rotor replacement happens less frequently, depending on your driving conditions and the material quality.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of wva manufacturer. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

If you notice warped or damaged rotors, it&#;s best to replace them simultaneously. Sometimes, the rotors can be resurfaced for a fraction of the cost, as long as there&#;s enough material thickness remaining.

Brake pads are sold in pairs. You purchase the front and rear brake pads separately or get an entire set at once. Either way, you should always replace brake pads across the entire axle.

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How Often Do I Need to Replace Pads and Rotors?

There&#;s no set mileage requirement for changing brakes. You may have to change the brake pads as early as every 30,000 miles if you are hard on your vehicle, or they could last 70,000 miles. Rotors typically last longer than the pads, so they shouldn&#;t need to be changed as frequently.

Here are a few factors that affect the life of the brakes.

• Brake material: You have a choice of material when purchasing brake pads. If you choose ceramic brake pads, they may last substantially longer, but they also cost more.
• Driving environment: If you drive in urban situations, you spend a lot of time on the brakes, causing them to wear faster. Also, if you regularly go up and down mountains, you probably use the brakes more.
• Driving habits: If you ride the brakes or slam on them abruptly, you will go through pads and rotors more frequently.

Signs That Brake Pads and Rotors Need to Be Replaced

Most auto manufacturers put brake inspection in the recommended maintenance schedule. By following these recommendations, you can avoid causing damage to the brake system. However, you should also be aware of signs that the brakes are worn.

Here are a few to consider.

• Odd noises: When brakes first start to wear, you can hear squealing as you press the pedal. The wear indicators usually cause this sound. If you continue driving after this point, the noise may change to grinding or growling as metal touches metal.
• Increased stopping time: With the brakes working as intended, stopping times will be at their best. Yet, it becomes harder to stop the vehicle when the pads and rotors start wearing.
• Car pulls while braking: The brake pads on both sides should put forth the same amount of effort. If one side starts to wear faster, there will be uneven stopping effort. As a result, one side of the car will pull harder than the other. This problem can also be caused by a mechanical malfunction, such as a stuck caliper or a bad bearing.
• Vibration: When the pads wear, rotors start to heat up and become warped. As the disc warps, a vibration can be felt through the steering wheel, especially while braking.

If you experience one or more of these symptoms, it&#;s time to take a look at the brakes. Not only can more damage occur, but it can also cause an accident. If you aren&#;t sure what your brakes are trying to tell you, visit a professional mechanic for more support.

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