sdowney717 said:
The stuff could not fit through the head's entry hole.
I have let it sit for a few days.
It is an Jabsco electric head with a macerator.
I can close the intake through hull and run it again and see if it goes down.
With this style head, a plunger I think will help, at least stir up and loosen the muck. I can also plug up my house toilets sometimes.
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Entry hole?
Yes, closing the intake should help. Once you get the bowl clear, that would help inject a solution like Sew Clean if the problem is that the discharge hose is clogged with scale.
(Ours, which had been working fine, apparently dried out while I had the system open for a few days doing other stuff, and that's what caused the scale or whatever to harden, serious clog. Before using the SC stuff, we apparently had just enough of a pathway through that water in the bowl would eventually siphon itself through the hose and into the holding tank.)
If you really have to do any take-it-apart service, you'll appreciate having pumped out/rinsed/repeated in advance.
Under normal circumstances, the macerator should be able to break up any solids... so that it's mostly a liquid going out through the discharge hose. If you have something in there that isn't turning to liquid or is otherwize blocking the macerator blade (wet wipe? etc.?), a plunger may or may not help dislodge that enough to capture it.
A plunger may be hard on the joker valve. Using it to "push" may be OK, but using it to "pull" may invert the joker valve permanently... Just a guess, though...
I was thinking of these threads, mis-remembering that they're actually two separate threads. In any case, see the especially the second thread, Peggie's post #26 which illustrates the clog:
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/vacuflush-blowing-fuse-.html#post
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s32/muriatic-acid-clean-toilet-.html
-Chris
Entry hole?Yes, closing the intake should help. Once you get the bowl clear, that would help inject a solution like Sew Clean if the problem is that the discharge hose is clogged with scale.(Ours, which had been working fine, apparently dried out while I had the system open for a few days doing other stuff, and that's what caused the scale or whatever to harden, serious clog. Before using the SC stuff, we apparently had just enough of a pathway through that water in the bowl would eventually siphon itself through the hose and into the holding tank.)If you really have to do any take-it-apart service, you'll appreciate having pumped out/rinsed/repeated in advance.Under normal circumstances, the macerator should be able to break up any solids... so that it's mostly a liquid going out through the discharge hose. If you have something in there that isn't turning to liquid or is otherwize blocking the macerator blade (wet wipe? etc.?), a plunger may or may not help dislodge that enough to capture it.A plunger may be hard on the joker valve. Using it to "push" may be OK, but using it to "pull" may invert the joker valve permanently... Just a guess, though...I was thinking of these threads, mis-remembering that they're actually two separate threads. In any case, see the especially the second thread, Peggie's post #26 which illustrates the clog:-Chris
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Chris Patterson said:
I really hate that the clear hose is no good. I was thinking of running it around the cabin for effects, something like a lava lamp if you will. Only different..
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was kinda thinkin the same thing... when I was searching and inspecting for the source of the leak, I saw the vent tube, which is clear poly, to have effluent in it...
I couldnt tell by pumping that the tank was full, but once i seen the fluid in the vent line rising and trying to purge itself, I quickly deduced where the problem was and why..... the effluent level in the vent line was not rising at the same rate as I was pumping, so I knew the vent screen was plugged and the bulk of the water I was putting in was exiting somewhere... when I looked in the tank compartment, it was holding quite a bit outside of the tank....
(in my opinion, leaving the screen in the vent line thru hull fitting is a bad idea, as when it plugs up and dries, its like its been mortered in... i think this was the ultimate cause of the ruptured tank....)
which brings me to my thoughts about the clear poly with bubbles rising thru it.... I was thinking if I ran a section of clear vent tube up the corner of the head before exiting the boat, I would have a visual indicator when the tank is full....
I did think about installing an actual indicator in the tank, but the tank is only 6"deep 22"wide and 36"long , so i think with the boat rocking and rolling, it would not give a very accurate reading unless installed directly in the center of the top of the tank.... and this is not an option....
so, until I hear of a better way, the vent line tank level indicator still has the most votes from me...
Complete Guide to Hydraulic Hose AssemblyThe Advantages of Choosing Organic Bamboo BeddingWhy Choose Nylon Mono Liner Fabric?was kinda thinkin the same thing... when I was searching and inspecting for the source of the leak, I saw the vent tube, which is clear poly, to have effluent in it...I couldnt tell by pumping that the tank was full, but once i seen the fluid in the vent line rising and trying to purge itself, I quickly deduced where the problem was and why..... the effluent level in the vent line was not rising at the same rate as I was pumping, so I knew the vent screen was plugged and the bulk of the water I was putting in was exiting somewhere... when I looked in the tank compartment, it was holding quite a bit outside of the tank....(in my opinion, leaving the screen in the vent line thru hull fitting is a bad idea, as when it plugs up and dries, its like its been mortered in... i think this was the ultimate cause of the ruptured tank....)which brings me to my thoughts about the clear poly with bubbles rising thru it.... I was thinking if I ran a section of clear vent tube up the corner of the head before exiting the boat, I would have a visual indicator when the tank is full....I did think about installing an actual indicator in the tank, but the tank is only 6"deep 22"wide and 36"long , so i think with the boat rocking and rolling, it would not give a very accurate reading unless installed directly in the center of the top of the tank.... and this is not an option....so, until I hear of a better way, the vent line tank level indicator still has the most votes from me...
What size sanitation hose
sdowney717 said:
The stuff could not fit through the head's entry hole.
I have let it sit for a few days.
It is an Jabsco electric head with a macerator.
I can close the intake through hull and run it again and see if it goes down.
With this style head, a plunger I think will help, at least stir up and loosen the muck. I can also plug up my house toilets sometimes.
Click to expand...
Entry hole?
Yes, closing the intake should help. Once you get the bowl clear, that would help inject a solution like Sew Clean if the problem is that the discharge hose is clogged with scale.
(Ours, which had been working fine, apparently dried out while I had the system open for a few days doing other stuff, and that's what caused the scale or whatever to harden, serious clog. Before using the SC stuff, we apparently had just enough of a pathway through that water in the bowl would eventually siphon itself through the hose and into the holding tank.)
If you really have to do any take-it-apart service, you'll appreciate having pumped out/rinsed/repeated in advance.
Under normal circumstances, the macerator should be able to break up any solids... so that it's mostly a liquid going out through the discharge hose. If you have something in there that isn't turning to liquid or is otherwize blocking the macerator blade (wet wipe? etc.?), a plunger may or may not help dislodge that enough to capture it.
A plunger may be hard on the joker valve. Using it to "push" may be OK, but using it to "pull" may invert the joker valve permanently... Just a guess, though...
I was thinking of these threads, mis-remembering that they're actually two separate threads. In any case, see the especially the second thread, Peggie's post #26 which illustrates the clog:
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/vacuflush-blowing-fuse-.html#post
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s32/muriatic-acid-clean-toilet-.html
-Chris
Entry hole?Yes, closing the intake should help. Once you get the bowl clear, that would help inject a solution like Sew Clean if the problem is that the discharge hose is clogged with scale.(Ours, which had been working fine, apparently dried out while I had the system open for a few days doing other stuff, and that's what caused the scale or whatever to harden, serious clog. Before using the SC stuff, we apparently had just enough of a pathway through that water in the bowl would eventually siphon itself through the hose and into the holding tank.)If you really have to do any take-it-apart service, you'll appreciate having pumped out/rinsed/repeated in advance.Under normal circumstances, the macerator should be able to break up any solids... so that it's mostly a liquid going out through the discharge hose. If you have something in there that isn't turning to liquid or is otherwize blocking the macerator blade (wet wipe? etc.?), a plunger may or may not help dislodge that enough to capture it.A plunger may be hard on the joker valve. Using it to "push" may be OK, but using it to "pull" may invert the joker valve permanently... Just a guess, though...I was thinking of these threads, mis-remembering that they're actually two separate threads. In any case, see the especially the second thread, Peggie's post #26 which illustrates the clog:-Chris
Chris Patterson said:
I really hate that the clear hose is no good. I was thinking of running it around the cabin for effects, something like a lava lamp if you will. Only different..
Click to expand
was kinda thinkin the same thing... when I was searching and inspecting for the source of the leak, I saw the vent tube, which is clear poly, to have effluent in it...
I couldnt tell by pumping that the tank was full, but once i seen the fluid in the vent line rising and trying to purge itself, I quickly deduced where the problem was and why..... the effluent level in the vent line was not rising at the same rate as I was pumping, so I knew the vent screen was plugged and the bulk of the water I was putting in was exiting somewhere... when I looked in the tank compartment, it was holding quite a bit outside of the tank....
(in my opinion, leaving the screen in the vent line thru hull fitting is a bad idea, as when it plugs up and dries, its like its been mortered in... i think this was the ultimate cause of the ruptured tank....)
which brings me to my thoughts about the clear poly with bubbles rising thru it.... I was thinking if I ran a section of clear vent tube up the corner of the head before exiting the boat, I would have a visual indicator when the tank is full....
I did think about installing an actual indicator in the tank, but the tank is only 6"deep 22"wide and 36"long , so i think with the boat rocking and rolling, it would not give a very accurate reading unless installed directly in the center of the top of the tank.... and this is not an option....
so, until I hear of a better way, the vent line tank level indicator still has the most votes from me...
was kinda thinkin the same thing... when I was searching and inspecting for the source of the leak, I saw the vent tube, which is clear poly, to have effluent in it...I couldnt tell by pumping that the tank was full, but once i seen the fluid in the vent line rising and trying to purge itself, I quickly deduced where the problem was and why..... the effluent level in the vent line was not rising at the same rate as I was pumping, so I knew the vent screen was plugged and the bulk of the water I was putting in was exiting somewhere... when I looked in the tank compartment, it was holding quite a bit outside of the tank....(in my opinion, leaving the screen in the vent line thru hull fitting is a bad idea, as when it plugs up and dries, its like its been mortered in... i think this was the ultimate cause of the ruptured tank....)which brings me to my thoughts about the clear poly with bubbles rising thru it.... I was thinking if I ran a section of clear vent tube up the corner of the head before exiting the boat, I would have a visual indicator when the tank is full....I did think about installing an actual indicator in the tank, but the tank is only 6"deep 22"wide and 36"long , so i think with the boat rocking and rolling, it would not give a very accurate reading unless installed directly in the center of the top of the tank.... and this is not an option....so, until I hear of a better way, the vent line tank level indicator still has the most votes from me...
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