The purchase of a lathe by a prospective turner may be a considerable investment, but funding should also be allocated for other essential basic items such as a suitable chuck.
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Chuck development at Axminster
Made by us in Axminster using the latest CNC production techniques, our world class chucks were not born overnight. They are the result of over three decades of experience in production and design. Our team of expert product designers and engineers here at Axminster Tools, produced one of the world's first four jaw, self-centering chucks for woodturners back in . It wasn't long before the team explored all manner of different accessories for the chuck. They devised a style of mounting four quadrants of a profiled disc that we called jaws. These jaws are still, to this day, compatible with all the chucks we have made. It is important to us to ensure that the accessories you purchased yesterday, will still work with the chucks we make and sell today.
Over the years, much of the development of our chucks and jaws has come from the feedback and input of professional woodturners. And our design and engineering team continue to develop our lathe accessories to provide our customers with world class products.
The ever-expanding range of Axminster woodturning chucks now covers almost every type of work-holding requirement, from dolls&#; house chair legs just a few millimetres in diameter to 60cm diameter bowls weighing 20kg or more. Precision made in high grade steel, the chucks and their associated accessories have been developed over the years, in many cases in discussion with our professional turning friends, to cover almost every eventuality likely to be encountered by the amateur or professional alike.
One of our guiding principles has always been to ensure that as many different operations as possible can be carried out without removing the chuck from the lathe. This approach, combined with the provision of multiple gripping diameters on most of the jaws, gives minimum outlay coupled with maximum flexibility of operation.
Apart from the junior chuck which utilises engineering end mill collets to hold small workpieces, all the Axminster chucks use the tried and tested scroll mechanism to control the jaw travel. This system provides the dual benefits of a nominal half inch of radial movement of each jaw in expansion and contraction and a security of grip onto the work which is unrivalled by any of the collet style chucks on the market. They are also supplied with a set of SafetyJaw accessory mounting jaws with rounded corners which minimise the chance of injury should your fingers get too close to the rotating chuck.
Axminster Essential SK88 Chuck
The 88mm steel chuck is the smallest chuck in the Axminster Woodturning range. It's light and compact design makes it suitable for a variety of lathes and is particularly suited to smaller models.
As with all the chucks in the Axminster Woodturning range, the SK88 is precision designed and manufactured from Axminster Tools HQ in Axminster, Devon, UK and is engineered using the latest in CNC technology.
The Essential SK88 Chuck, is a more compact version of our renowned stainless steel Clubman SK100 Chuck. Meticulously crafted with precision, the SK88 Chuck maintains the same design excellence that our customers have come to expect from the Clubman SK100 Chuck, but with a strategic engineering shift to EN1A steel. This cost effective alternative makes a perfect entry-level choice for beginners venturing into the art of woodturning.
The chuck package includes the basic tools needed for work holding on the lathe, and is ideal for beginners in woodturning. The package includes chuck body, faceplate ring, dovetail jaws and screw chuck (all available to buy separately).
Also available is a range of steel jaws compatible with the Essential SK88 Chuck, useful for holding a wide range of projects. The Essential SK88 Chuck can also be purchased as body only.
Explore Jaws
Axminster Evolution Chucks
First drawn at a desk in Devon, the Evolution chuck has been machined and refined to make woodturning easier, accurate and more enjoyable. Our aim was to produce a chuck that was slim, keeping the weight of the work over the bearings.
We achieved maximum accuracy by threading the body of the chuck for perfect concentricity. We also wanted a chuck that would suit the jaws already owned by our customers. Our first prototypes were tested by some of the most well known names in the woodturning world.
Taking the best features of our Axminster chuck designs over the past 20 years, we have in our view the most superb woodturning chuck ever made - the Evolution SK114. We have introduced round the clock manufacturing at our production workshop in Axminster to keep pace with global demand.
Uniquely the Evolution body is made of stainless steel making it totally rustproof. Every millimetre of this chuck is made in the UK and assembled in Devon. All of the components are machined in our workshop giving us total control so that the chucks we produce are supreme in terms of longevity and quality. We even designed a box to have the perfect fit.
The Evolution is a revolution in chuck making and, we believe, it is the finest woodturning chuck ever made.
The Evolution SK100 Chuck is also available.
Axminster Clubman SK100 Chuck
The Clubman 100mm (4") stainless steel chuck body, including the thread, is a single piece, maximising concentricity and minimising vibration during use.
Using stainless steel allows closer tolerances during the manufacturing process as the chuck body no longer needs electro-plating, which can vary in thickness. These chucks are made by us in Axminster using the latest CNC production techniques.
All Axminster chucks are part of an excellent woodturning chuck system, just add a set of jaws or accessories from our extensive range to suit your needs. Supplied with our SafetyJaw accessory mounting jaws, which have rounded corners and a chuck key, they available in a range of thread options.
Lathe Thread Information
The table below lists all the stock thread types which can be used when ordering any of the threaded items, such as chucks, chuck backplates, faceplates and screw chucks. If you are uncertain about which thread to specify please ring our Specialist Sales Team who will be pleased to help. They will need to know either the make of the lathe or the dimensions of the lathe spindle as shown in the diagram. The column heading numbers refer to the dimensions in the diagram as follows:
1. Register diameter.
2. Register length.
3. Thread diameter.
4. Combined length of thread and register.
5. Thread pitch, either threads per inch or thread pitch if metric.
Right hand threads
Thread size
Lathe type
1
2
3
4
5
T01 (3/4" x 16tpi)
Carbatec, Coronet, Record
3/4"
3/16"
3/4"
11/16"
16
T02 (1 1/2" x 6tpi)
NV28-40, Supalathe, Harrison Graduate
1.1/2"
3/8"
1.1/2"
1.1/8"
6
T03 (1" x 12tpi)
Myford ML8 (Inboard), Turnstyler
1.1/8"
3/8"
1"
1"
12
T04M (1" x 8tpi)
Axminster AC240WL, AC305WL, AC370WL, AH-, AWSL/VSL, AWVSL 900/, Delta General 160, Sheppach DMS900
1"
1/4"
1"
1.1/8"
8
T06 (1 1/2" x 8tpi)
Powermatic 90
1.1/2"
3/8"
1.1/2"
1"
8
T23 (1 1/4" x 8tpi)
General 260, Powermatic B/B
1.1/4"
1/8"
1.1/4"
1"
8
T37 (33mm x 3.5mm)
Minimax
30mm
18mm
30mm
40mm
3.5mm
T38 (33mm x 3.5mm)
Axminster AC355WL, AT350WL, AT406WL, AT508WL, ATVS, ATVS, Jet B, , B, , , , VS Killinger, Robust
34mm
16mm
33mm
30mm
3.5mm
T38R (33mm x 3.5mm)
Extended body with reverse locking
34mm
16mm
33mm
30mm
3.5mm
T38W (33mm x 3.5mm)
Woodfast
33mm
6mm
33mm
29mm
3.5mm
T38PRO* (33mm x 3.5mm)
Professional, A
33mm
4mm
33mm
37mm
3.5mm
T38V (Special fitting)
Vicmarc
34mm
16mm
33mm
30mm
3.5mm
VB36 (Special fitting)
VB36
*Please measure register diameter (1) to ensure the correct fitting
Right hand / left hand threads
Thread size
Lathe type
1
2
3
4
5
T02RL (1 1/2" x 6tpi)
Harrison Graduate and APTC Woodfast Lathes to suit both sides of the headstock
1 1/2"
3/8"
1 1/2"
1 1/8"
6
Some care should be taken when buying a chuck as they&#;re machined with an internal thread which must match the spindle thread of the lathe it&#;s going to be used on. The chucks are also supplied with a set of precision ground accessory mounting jaws, machined with threaded holes which accept the Axminster range of lathe jaws.
Specialist Chucks
Apart from a standard chuck, it&#;s also desirable to have a way of initially mounting bowl blanks for the first rough turning. Although a faceplate (usually supplied with the lathe) can be used, it&#;s probably more convenient to use a Screw Chuck, which are available in a variety of different designs. Turning smaller items present their own difficulties, as tools and hands may become too close to the rotating parts of the lathe. One solution is to use an Axminster Junior Chuck (supplied with three collets). As knowledge and skill increase, more specialist and advanced equipment can be purchased, such as an Eccentric Spiralling Chuck which allows a range of eccentric and spiral stems to be produced.
Conclusion
The choice of a basic chuck is fairly straightforward and if funds allow, the Evolution SK114 is the obvious choice for larger lathes, with the SK88 for the smaller range of bench top lathes. For more advice on which chuck would suit your lathe and project contact our Specialist Sales Team on or .
Ok, I&#;m not 100% sure if anyone will be interested in this, however as far as I have seen, this site leans more towards software and electronics, than mechanical. That&#;s not a criticism, more of an observation. So I thought I could expand the site's scope, with my offering. I'll add photo's, etc at a later date, if this article proves popular.
If, however you feel this guide is inappropriately placed on this site, then please inform me, via my ridicule page, which can be found by clicking here.
When I was building my robot, I found my lathe indispensable. Although I realize not all of you need, want, or even care about lathes, others on here may be considering such a purchase. I was a center lathe turner by trade, a number of years back, so thought I could offer my assistance here, with a buyer&#;s guide and basics of using a lathe.
After this guide got too long, I decided to limit it, to just a buyers guide. If anyone shows any interest, then I&#;ll write a basic lathe operation guide, at some time in the future.
A lathe
A lathe is a machine designed for creating cylindrical objects, out of materials such as metal, nylon and wood. Since the majority of you, won't be turning wood and wood working lathes are a different species all together, we'll ignore them here.
Lathes come in all shapes and sizes. Large industrial CNC machines can cost into the millions, where as small hobbiest machines can be picked up in used condition for a couple of hundred. My own machine, is small and designed purely for the diy enthusiast. This doesn&#;t mean the machine is incapable, but it's only as good as the person operating it. Since you're more likely to be buying a machine such as this, I&#;ll concentrate my efforts towards this type of machine.
Safety
Always wear eye protection. Suitable eye wear is cheap and reliable. New eyes are not!
Never operate a lathe wearing clothing, or jewelry likely to dangle close to the machine! If a neck tie, for example becomes caught in the chuck, your head is going straight for the spinning chuck and you will not have time to stop the machine, before it rips your face off.
Swarf, (the waste material created by metal working machinery) is razor sharp and can be hot. Make every attempt to avoid handling. If handling is necessary, then always wear suitable gloves and try to use a rake, to remove from the machine bed.
The major parts of a lathe are,
The company is the world’s best types of chuck in lathe supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
Headstock
The headstock is the area, which houses the motor, gears and bearings. It would usually be situated on your left. The chuck connects to the headstock.
Tailstock
This is found on the opposite end to the headstock and can be slid along the length of the machine. A brake is usually fitted, to hold the tailstock in the desired place. There will also be a handwheel, which when turned will move a spindle, either in, or out, depending on which direction it's turned. The tailstock can hold numerous tools, such as a drill chuck, a live center, dies, or taps and many other useful attachments.
Chuck
The chuck holds the work piece. Unlike most machinery, a lathe keeps tools such as drills stationary, while the work piece revolves. Various chucks are available such as 3 jaw self centering chucks and 4 jaw independent chucks. Various jaws are also available for the chucks too. The chuck attaches to the lathe via a face plate. As a beginner, you will be using the 3 jaw chuck, more than the 4 jaw.
Saddle
The saddle is the large slide, which moves left and right along the machine bed. There will be a threaded bar (named the lead screw), striking through the saddle. The saddle has numerous handwheels, levers, etc and is where most of the operator&#;s input will be done.
Machine Bed
The machine bed, is the long axis, to which the saddle and tailstock sit.
Cross Slide
The cross slide sits on top of the saddle and as the name suggests, slides back and fourth across the front to rear axis of the machine.
Compound slide
This sits aloft the cross slide, however unlike the other slides, the angle to which it can be used is adjustable.
Tool post
Although this sounds like the name of a rubbish newspaper about tooling, it's actually the part of your lathe, which holds the cutting tool. It sits on top of the compound slide and comes in many different forms.
Buying
Deciding on what sized lathe you require can be difficult. You should think about what your wanting to produce. Do you really need a machine that can turn 8 inch diameter stainless steel bar? Probably not. Large industrial machines sometimes come up at auction, but this might not be the ideal machine for you. These things don't just run off a power socket on your wall, does your home have the appropriate kind of power requirements? They can weigh several tonnes, do you have a way of transporting it? Will your workshop floor support it? If all your producing is something half an inch in diameter, then it would appear to be over kill. I've worked on lathes large enough to fit a 16 inch alloy wheel in the chuck. The same lathe would be next to useless, when I was making parts for my robot.
A better option, would be something smaller. You may find one locally, in the classifieds, eBay, or similar. A smaller lathe is more likely to produce the precision work, you require. It will fit in your car for transport and plugs directly into a wall socket. A small lathe can turn larger work pieces than you would think. It&#;s not always the size of the lathe, that determines the maximum turning diameter, but the wisdom of the operator. My small lathe has a maximum chuck diameter of 45mm, however I can turn much larger diameters, by turning between centers. The distance between the centre of the chuck and the closest part of the machine bed, is called the &#;throw&#;, however, I&#;m led to believe the American way of measuring this, would be the throw measurement doubled. This would describe the maximum diameter the lathe can accommodate.
If you find a lathe and you're thinking of buying, here are a few pointers.
Research any lathe you&#;re interested in. some lathes can be very old, making spares impossible to find and even if you do find them, they&#;re expensive. I&#;ve come across unbranded lathes in the past. I&#;d suggest staying clear of these. If you need assistance, with parts, or maintenance, a brand name is the first question you&#;ll be asked.
When you view the lathe.
Grab the chuck, with both hands and rock it. Can you feel the bearings knocking? If you can, then they&#;re probably worn out. This could be an expensive repair.
The machine bed can wear out over years of usage. To test for this, apply the brake on the tailstock at it's maximum position on the bed. You should loosen the brake, until you can just push the tailstock by hand, but you can also feel the resistance of the brake. This might begin to move freely, however if the brake can't hold the tailstock further down the bed and it&#;s locked solid, without the brake at the far end, then the bed could be worn.
Hand wheels should run freely. Jumpy, sticky, or noisy movement suggest problems. They will show some play in their usage, which is permissible, however excessive lateral movement is a bad sign. There should be indexing marks around the handles, you'll need these, so make sure you can read them and they're firmly attached.
Obvious signs of a bad machine include thick rust, or chunks of metal missing on the bed and slides. Noisy operation.
You should run the machine. Lathes don't have the quietest of gearboxes, but loud knocks from the headstock should be viewed with caution.
Inquire what&#;s included with the machine. Spare parts can be hard to come by. Some lathes require screw cutting gears, to use that facility, so they should be included. Live centers and tailstock attachments can be expensive, if you can get these included, then all the better.
If there are cutting tools included, that's great. However these are probably something you can pick up cheap enough.
Digital read out (DRO). These are fantastic and make the process of turning so much simpler. They're not essential though and as a hobbiest, it's possibly an expense you don't need.
Coolant system. Some small lathes don't have this facility, but can be retro fitted. Any used lathe is likely to have gunge in the coolant pipework. A clean out is probably going to be needed, but check the pump works. Bacteria can build up in a coolant system, causing a health hazard. This is more likely to happen on a machine that&#;s infrequently used. If a coolant system is not something your machine has, then that&#;s not a problem. You&#;ll have to turn slower, make shallower cuts and apply a cutting fluid by hand.
Lathes have been made in both metric and imperial measurements. I was trained to use both, but if you only know the one system, then make sure your lathe employs that system. However a lathe fitted with a DRO, should have a switch, to move between the two.
Before you do anything else
When you've bought your lathe and got it into your workshop, there's a few things you should know. All lathes come with mounting holes. It&#;s always advisable to screw your lathe down. However, if your lathe sits on a stand, make sure it's securely bolted down to the stand. My lathe is a desk top lathe and I&#;ve never screwed it down. I've also known people use large one piece lathes, weighing a couple of tonnes and they have never secured them to the floor. If you're turning something that's off center and heavy enough to throw the lathe about, then chances are you using a setting that's way too fast. The only thing that is essential, if your machine is mounted on a stand, then secure it to the stand.
You will need to familiarize yourself with your new machine. As all lathes have slightly different configurations, I can't really guide you through this, but just try turning the various hand wheels and watching what happens. You can leave the machine off, you don't need it running for this to work. Remember lathes can be dangerous. They don't have sensors and if your finger gets caught in moving parts, then it will show you no mercy.
Make sure your cutting tool is held tightly in place. Never leave the chuck key in the chuck and always use the machine guards.
I&#;d welcome any feed back on this guide. Does anyone want a basic turning guide?
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit types of collet chuck.
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