Sand casting is one of the most common forms of metal casting and accounts for a large majority of cast prototypes in weight. During the sand casting process, a metal is heated to the point that it melts and the chemical composition can be modified. Once the material becomes a liquid property, the molten metal is poured into a sand mold that has been shaped to the desired specifications of the prototype being manufactured.
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Like other forms of casting, the advantages and disadvantages of the casting type are semi-dependent on the knowledge that the designer has, as well as the care that they use to complete the process. Before any casting project is completed, it is important to carefully weigh the functional needs of the part that is to be cast, as well as how the particular casting method will help to achieve those results.
When working with sand casting, it is important for the designer to consider eight key elements of the casting process to avoid common engineering mistakes. Those key elements are:
The general process is described below:
The drag and cope are two open frames within which the cavity is formed. Together they make a casting box referred to as a flask. Place the drag (lower box) on a stable and robust work surface and place the pattern onto the work surface in the center of the drag, flat face down. Dust the pattern and the work surface with release powder such as talc to enable decoupling of the work surface and the pattern later. Cover the pattern and the inside of the drag with sand that has been riddled (shaken through a coarse sieve or riddler to remove clumps). Carefully ram this sand into the drag to form an integrated mass that closely fits the pattern. Complete the fill with sand and further ram this to integrate the whole. Be careful not to disturb the position of the half pattern, but ensure that the mass is well integrated. Use a strike bar to cut any bulge of sand from the face of the drag, to make a flat and smooth surface. Any stiff straight edge will suffice to cut this sand, but make sure the drag is filled with packed sand.
With the drag filled, invert it to expose the upper face and the pattern. Decide where the conical feed and vent sprue positions should be placed. Trim a small receiver well and vent reservoir at each position, using a finisher tool (blunt knife or spoon). These features are small depressions that should be large enough for the sprue patterns to seat into. Cut channels from the receiver and vent wells to the faces of the pattern. This will allow the fill to flow from the wells to the cavity and the gas to escape as the second well fills. Liberally dust the entire drag surface with parting powder to allow the next stage to disengage when formed.
Place the cope onto the drag and position the sprue cones into the two wells you cut in the drag surface. Re-dust the surface with parting powder. Begin to riddle sand into the open top of the cope, making sure not to disturb the sprue patterns. Ram this new sand with care to not damage the drag setup but ensure that the sand is well integrated. Complete the fill of the cope and ram the sand, so that the fill forms an integrated and robust whole. Strike the upper face of the cope to produce a flat surface. When this is complete, remove the sprue patterns, being careful not to disturb the packed fill in the cope. Don’t worry about sand that falls into the hole, you can clear this later.
Carefully lift the cope off the drag and place it inverted next to the drag. Use a slick tool (precise repair and sand manipulation tool) to remove any upstanding features from the face of the cope fill. This is usually achieved by screwing one or more hooks into prepared holes in the flat surface of the pattern to lift it. More traditionally, draw spikes are hammered into the pattern to provide the lift “handle”. Where you cut the receiver/vent wells larger than the sprue patterns that were socketed into them, the space will have filled as you rammed the cope with fill. Cut away this excess and clean up any detritus by blowing it away. Without damaging the formed cavity, lift the pattern out of the cavity in the drag. Clean up any residues and make sure the feed channels are open and clear.
Using a vent rod, form small holes from the cavity to the topside of the cope. This will allow extra gas passages for venting when the cavity is filled. Make sure that the damage to the cavity is minimal. Vent the “high” points of the cavity. Try to avoid/minimize any cosmetic damage to the cavity face. Clean up any detritus by blowing it away. Clean up damaged edges of the sprue holes using a slick. Place the cope back onto the drag and lock the two halves together. Move the completed flask to the casting floor, ready to fill. Allow sufficient time (for green sand casts) for the moisture content to fall to an acceptable level. Other systems such as dry sand or furan-resin-bonded sand require less wait time.
This description assumes melt has been completed and degassed. Poor degassing will result in a failed and porous casting. The crucible must be de-slagged and de-gassed completely, ready for the charge to be used to fill the cavity.
To complete this process, lift the crucible out of the furnace using crucible lift tongs. Place the crucible into the carrier tongs. Perform a final slag removal to make sure the surface of the melt is clean and smooth. Lift the crucible with the appropriate tongs that allow you to carry and tilt it with reliable precision. Carry the crucible to the flask and carefully commence the pour. Do not rush this stage; there will be steam and smoke, and a rushed pour will be less accurate, more hazardous, and more likely to erode the cavity faces and “include” sand detritus in the finished cast. Fill until the sprue holes are visibly full—this not only confirms fill but maintains some pressure to flow material into the cavity from these two cones, to compensate for initial shrinkage as the fill cools.
A rushed unpacking of the cast is hazardous and can result in distortion if the fill remains soft.
Once cooled, unlock the cope from the drag and break out the casting and sand manually or using a shaker table. Sand is returned for re-use. Remove the casting features that are not part of the required component (sprue or feeder) by cutting with a saw or grinder. Fettle (clean up and improve) the finished part with a die-grinder or file to remove bumps from vent features, fill channels, and any sand that broke away from the cavity parts before casting.
With a pattern made, setting up a cavity can take as little as an hour or less, if the process is well established. Drying/curing times for best casting results depend on the sand type and can be up to 12 hours. Filling is the work of moments, and the cooling time depends heavily on the size of the parts. Very large parts (tons) can require several days of cooling.
Several types of sand methods and materials are commonly used and are listed below:
Dry sand is a specific type of molding sand that uses clay (either kaolinite or bentonite) with very little water as a binding agent. This binder creates a mold that retains its pattern-rammed shape and withstands the pouring of molten metal without collapsing or causing defects in the casting. A major advantage of this approach is that there is less steam in the fill process that can otherwise fracture and destabilize the sand construct, or disrupt the pour.
Resin sand, also referred to as resin-coated sand or furan sand, is a type of molding sand used in sand casting processes. Furan refers to the use of furfuryl alcohol resin. It is a mixture of silica sand or other aggregate materials and a synthetic resin binder that bonds sand grains into a coherent mass, creating a stable and robust mold for casting metal parts.
Using resin-coated sand in sand casting offers several advantages over traditional green sand or dry sand processes. Resin-sand molds are stronger and have better dimensional stability compared to green-sand molds, resulting in more accurate and consistent castings. The cure duration for furan-sand molds is shorter than the drying time required for green-sand molds. Furan-sand molds often result in castings with smoother and cleaner surface finishes due to reduced mold surface defects. Resin-sand molds are less prone to deformation or mold collapse during metal pouring, leading to higher productivity through fewer failures, low or zero steam defects, or reduced need for post-casting fettle.
Sodium silicate or water glass casting is a specialized sand casting process that exploits a sodium silicate binder to integrate the sand for mold formation. The mold is formed in the traditional way and is dried and cured to create a more precise structure than green-sand casts. This technique is traditionally preferred for more intricate and delicate patterns, but may well be performance and cost surpassed by furan-sand casting.
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Featured content:These molds are less resilient in use and handling than some other methods. Sodium silicate casting is still widely used, for benefits such as: good dimensional stability, low cost, shorter curing time compared to green-sand molds, and lower moisture content at fill than green-sand casting.
Green-sand (or greensand) casting is a widely used process for manufacturing metal parts. The green appearance of the sand is due to the presence of moisture, bentonite clay, and sea coal. Sea coal is powdered bituminous coal that coincidentally washes up on beaches and is “naturally” present in beach sand as the first casting medium. This cast-making process offers a poorer surface finish and lesser precision/repeatability than more modern processes using less volatile and fragile binders.
Nonetheless, green-sand casting offers various advantages that keep it in heavy use, such as: suitability for producing the widest range of part sizes and complexities, simplicity, minimal tooling requirement, and the sand can be reused.
Sand casting is applicable to all metals other than exotics such as mercury and gallium. It is particularly well suited to high-cost/high-temperature materials such as titanium and nickel. It is most practical in the manufacture of relatively low cost and larger parts, often including some post machining to impose dimensional precision in the areas that require it. Metals commonly sand cast are: aluminum alloys, bronzes (gunmetal, nickel-aluminum bronze, etc.), steel, iron (nodular (gray), white, ductile, and malleable), brass, and stainless steels.
For more information, see our guide on What Elements Are Metalloids.
Yes, steel is extensively sand cast for large and small items: from giant gears/flywheels for marine engines to decorative street furniture. To learn more, see our guide on the Function of Steel.
Yes, iron has been sand cast since the earliest periods of the iron age. It is considered a preferred method for the initial processing of most iron components.
Yes, titanium lends itself to sand casting because of the high-temperature resilience of the cavities made for this process. However, the reactivity of the metal in its liquid state makes this a skilled and challenging process.
Sand casting, despite being an ancient process, offers advantages that render it highly relevant in high-technology production. Such benefits are:
There are various disadvantages and limitations to this casting method. These are:
Examples of sand cast products abound in almost all market sectors, particularly in low-cost products and in heavy industries are listed below:
It depends. Cast parts that are well designed, well made, and use task-appropriate materials can be essential for permanent durability. The wear resilience of sand castings is highly dependent on the material. For example, cast aluminum makes very poor bearing surfaces and will spall and degrade quickly in abrasion. Bronze, on the other hand, can be very robust in bearing applications. The tensile strength of castings, on the other hand, can be very high, making long-lived tensor components. Design and material selection affect this greatly.
There are no intrinsic life span issues in sand cast parts as distinct from those made by other processes. Good design, quality manufacture, and appropriate materials selection can enable extreme life span in products—as evidenced by both modern use/outcomes and the archaeological record.
Yes, durability is a direct result of material properties and appropriate material selection, among other factors.
Functionally, the differences between sand casting and die casting are extensive. Die casting uses steel cavities, while sand casting uses sand molds. Die-cast tools offer higher dimensional accuracy/repeatability than sand casts. They also have high durability, often allowing thousands of casts before reconditioning—whereas, sand casts are not reusable. Die-cast tools and equipment are very costly, while sand casting is low-cost to establish.
Die casting also tends towards higher pressure, lower porosity, and better-compensated shrinkage than sand casting. Die casting has cycle times in minutes or seconds, while sand casting is generally much slower per part. Die casting uses a wide range of highly skilled labor, whereas sand casting is relatively low-skilled and often a single-person task.
This article presented sand casting, explained it, and discussed how it works and its advantages. To learn more about sand casting, contact a Xometry representative.
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